...

What Is Dermaplaning and Is It Worth Adding to Your Skincare Routine

Dermaplaning removes dead skin cells and fine facial hair using a surgical-grade scalpel for immediately smoother, brighter skin. Learn what it treats, who it suits, and how it fits into a broader skincare routine.
Dermaplaning London Ontario

Dermaplaning has become one of the most searched facial treatments in the last few years, and most of the information floating around online ranges from oversimplified to outright wrong. Some sources describe it as “shaving your face.” Others position it as a miracle treatment for every skin concern. Neither is accurate.

At Kontour Medical Aesthetics, dermaplaning is one of the facial treatments we offer because it does specific things very well for the right candidates. Here is what the treatment actually involves, what it accomplishes, and how to decide whether it belongs in your routine.

How Dermaplaning Works

Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation technique. A trained aesthetician uses a sterile, surgical-grade scalpel held at a 45-degree angle to gently scrape the surface of the skin. The blade removes two things simultaneously: the outermost layer of dead skin cells and the fine vellus hair (commonly called “peach fuzz”) that covers the face.

The strokes are precise, light, and controlled. This is not the same thing as shaving with a razor. The instrument is different, the angle is different, the technique is different, and the intent is different. Shaving cuts hair at the surface. Dermaplaning exfoliates the skin while removing hair at the same time.

The treatment is performed on clean, dry skin without any chemical agents. There are no acids, no heat, and no suction involved. It is purely mechanical exfoliation.

A session typically takes 20 to 30 minutes for the full face. There is no downtime. Your skin may appear slightly pink immediately afterward, similar to a mild flush, but this typically fades within an hour or two.

What Dermaplaning Accomplishes

The benefits of dermaplaning fall into a few specific categories.

Smoother Skin Texture

By removing the top layer of dead cells, dermaplaning reveals the fresher skin beneath. The result is an immediately smoother surface. Makeup applies more evenly. Skin looks brighter. Fine texture irregularities are temporarily reduced.

This is not a deep treatment. It addresses surface-level dullness and roughness. But for many clients, that surface-level improvement is exactly what they are looking for, particularly before a special event or when their skin has been looking flat despite a consistent routine.

Better Product Penetration

Dead skin cells and vellus hair create a physical barrier on the skin’s surface. When you apply serums, moisturizers, or treatment products over this barrier, a portion of the product sits on top rather than absorbing effectively.

After dermaplaning, that barrier is gone. Active ingredients in your skincare products make better contact with the skin and absorb more efficiently. Many clients notice that their serums and moisturizers feel different on their skin after a dermaplaning session, lighter and more readily absorbed.

This is one of the reasons dermaplaning pairs well with other treatments. When performed before a chemical peel or a hydrating treatment, the subsequent products and solutions penetrate more effectively because they are not working through a layer of dead cells.

Removal of Vellus Hair

The vellus hair on the face is fine and typically not visible from a normal distance. But it catches light, traps oil and debris, and can affect how makeup sits on the skin. Removing it gives the skin a cleaner, more polished appearance.

A common concern about removing facial hair is that it will grow back thicker or darker. This does not happen with vellus hair. Vellus hair is structurally different from terminal hair (the thicker, pigmented hair on your scalp, brows, and body). Dermaplaning does not change the follicle structure. The hair grows back at the same thickness, color, and texture as before.

What Dermaplaning Does Not Do

This is where managing expectations matters.

Dermaplaning does not treat acne. It does not reduce pore size. It does not address deep wrinkles, volume loss, or pigmentation. It does not stimulate collagen production. And it does not produce long-term structural changes in the skin.

It is a surface-level treatment. That is not a criticism. Surface-level treatments have real value when you understand what they are accomplishing. But if your primary concerns are deep scarring, stubborn hyperpigmentation, or significant textural damage, dermaplaning alone will not resolve them. Those concerns need treatments that work at deeper levels, like microneedling, lasers, or medical-grade peels.

Who Is a Good Candidate

Dermaplaning works well for most skin types. It is particularly suited for people who:

  • Want an immediate improvement in skin smoothness and radiance
  • Are preparing for an event and want their skin and makeup to look flawless
  • Have dry or dull skin that is not responding well to topical exfoliants
  • Want to enhance the absorption of their at-home skincare products
  • Prefer physical exfoliation over chemical exfoliation
  • Are pregnant or breastfeeding and want a safe exfoliation option (dermaplaning avoids chemical agents that may be contraindicated during pregnancy)

Who Should Skip Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning is not appropriate for everyone. You should avoid the treatment if you have:

  • Active acne breakouts or inflamed pustules (the blade can spread bacteria and worsen breakouts)
  • Active cold sores or herpes simplex in the treatment area
  • Rosacea flare-ups or highly reactive, sensitized skin
  • Sunburned or recently irritated skin
  • Very oily, acne-prone skin that breaks out frequently (the exfoliation can trigger more breakouts in some cases)

If you are unsure whether your skin is a good fit, a conversation with your provider before booking is always the right call.

How Often Should You Get Dermaplaning

The skin’s natural cell turnover cycle runs approximately every 28 to 40 days, slowing as you age. Dermaplaning every three to four weeks aligns with this cycle, removing the dead cells that have accumulated and allowing fresh skin to take their place.

Some clients get dermaplaning monthly as a maintenance treatment. Others use it seasonally or before specific occasions. There is no strict rule, but treating more frequently than every three weeks is unnecessary and can lead to over-exfoliation.

Dermaplaning as Part of a Broader Treatment Plan

Dermaplaning works well as a standalone treatment, but it also functions as a preparation step for other facial and skin rejuvenation treatments.

Pairing dermaplaning with a chemical peel allows the peel solution to penetrate more evenly and effectively. Combining it with a hydrating facial means the hydrating serums absorb into clean, exfoliated skin rather than sitting on a layer of dead cells.

For clients who are building a longer-term treatment plan that includes multiple modalities, dermaplaning is often one piece of the puzzle rather than the whole picture. It handles the surface while other treatments address deeper concerns.

The Bottom Line

Dermaplaning is a straightforward, effective treatment for surface-level skin improvement. It smooths texture, removes vellus hair, enhances product absorption, and gives the skin an immediate brightness that is hard to achieve with topical exfoliants alone.

It is not a treatment for deep skin concerns. It does not replace medical-grade interventions for aging, scarring, or pigmentation. But within its lane, it does its job well and with zero downtime.

If you are curious about whether dermaplaning fits into your skincare approach, contact Kontour Medical Aesthetics to discuss your skin concerns and find out which treatments make sense for your goals.

Latest from Our Medical Aesthetics Blog

Stay informed with expert insights, treatment guides, and the latest developments in medical aesthetics from Nurse Practitioner Belita Savage.